Sunday, June 29, 2008

Hitterdal, Minnesota

On the way out of Fargo we made a terrible mistake and took the unpaved road for 6 miles instead of a long detour. There was a lot of mud on everything. The bikes were very happy to get a bath and a chain cleaning at lunch that day.

Friday, June 27, 2008

Arthur, North Dakota

Liz is super excited to be putting up Big A in lower winds than the night before, when the tent got blown away.

June 26-27th in Binford, ND

David & Pam Adrian, who rescued us from the storm on the night of June 26th. You can see Big A, our tent, still trying to dry out in the background.

June 26th, Spirit Lake


Finally something new and different! A lake! Unfortunately this is a moment before the downpour began.

June 25 on our way to Minnewaukan

We really dig tailwinds! As you can see, North Dakota is like Montana but with hills.

Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Rugby, ND: the geographical center of North America

Here, we were in the middle of everything. Everything in North America, that is. Which really doesn't mean much at all....

Day 1 of Week 5 from Rugby, North Dakota

We made a dramatic recovery at Lund's Landing on Sunday. Not moving for pretty much an entire day except to eat a ridiculous amount of food really works!

The next day, Monday, we decided to veer off the Northern Tier route for just 100 miles to avoid a headwind going south and some tough hills and an Indian reservation. Instead we ventured through plains that were covered in oil wells, with their distinctive structures. We also saw a lot of Haliburton insignia, which made us think about how much stuff is going on in this country that none of us ever know about, because it may happen in North Dakota. That makes me think of UFOs, which are also exciting. Then we went through the pathetic town of Stanley, North Dakota for lunch. We arrived 82 miles on at Berthold, just outside Minot, having barely broken a sweat, the tailwind was so strong. As we have for most of the past couple of weeks and will for the rest of North Dakota at least, we stayed over in a city park. These are just the designated greens where the playground is, and near the baseball field. There is usually a lot of action from the younger set, who come out to play after dinner and stay out really late because it doesn't get dark until after 10. It seems like life is really different up here in the summer, when it can be so hot and it is so light. In the winter it has gotten down to -60 F, and in the summer up to 121 F, a huge difference!

On Tuesday morning we rode 25 miles into Minot, where we spent 6 hours catching up on bike repair, laundry, library, and grocery shopping. We also met 2 other cyclists from Boston heading west who were very jealous of our winds! They were very nice, we love meeting other cyclists. We got back on the road at around 4, planning to go 35 miles to a campsite in the Denbigh Experimental Forest, which sounded exciting and potentially dangerous, especially since a lot of buildings in Minot had nuclear fallout shelter symbols on them, but it turned out to be nothing special. Unfortunately, there was no sign of the campsite, so we had to go 12 more miles on to Towner, where we did not arrive until 7:30 p.m. Fortunately, we had delicious dinner to make! Pizza with pineapple, ham, mushrooms and onions, Chef Chaos's specialty.

This morning we reached Rugby, North Dakota, the geographic center of North America. Who knew!? We are very excited to be in such an important place. Mom and Dad were nice enough to send us a new bike pump, Cate's watch, and Cate's bathing suit, which we just picked up at the post office. Our goal for the day is Minnewaukan on Devil's Lake, but our secondary goal is that Minnewaukan will have a cinema because we are desperate for that silky darkness and the salty popcorn. We would see anything, anything, even Kung Fu Panda, or Indiana Jones for the second time!

- The Pandas

Lund's Landing, North Dakota

Sarah cooking pizzas below our lodging for the night, a teepee


The teepee, up close and personal

Entering North Dakota!


Century Day!

This picture was taken on our 100 mile day! If you look closely, the Missouri River is in the background.

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

North Dakota... like Montana, but more hills

Since our last posting we made our first century ride and crossed the border (and another time zone) into North Dakota. The hundred mile day was inspired by residents of the small towns we've passed through warning us not to spend the night in the Indian Reservation. However, we are not sure how founded these warnings were. We stopped for lunch in Poplar (on the reservation). It was kids day, and Frostees (the sandwich and ice cream place that we stopped at) was giving away free cones. It was really exciting around town- we unfortunately missed the bike parade though. We were warned against an alternate route off of route 2 to get to Culbertson (because it was out of the way), but it turned out to be really pretty. It had a view of the Missouri River and about 10 miles of cool cement/rock hills that are hard to describe. We had a tailwind all day and were efficient about stopping, so it ended up being a really nice day!

We took a picture at the border when entering North Dakota, happy to leave eastern Montana. Despite warnings otherwise from other bikers, we chose to take the scenic alternate route. The headwind was against us and the hills were redoncadonk. We collapsed in Lund's Landing and could not leave. Lund's Landing had a marina but no water! Lake Sakakawea has receded so that the water was nowhere in sight. They didn't have tent camping, so we stayed in a teepee. We took over a nice table overlooking the hills (again, there was no lake in sight) and made delicious ham and portobello mushroom pizza. The next morning after a night of s'mores and card playing, we could simply not move. Not at all. The winds were also blowing strongly from the east. So we chose to stay another day at Lund's Landing, trying to find the lake, playing cards and sleeping. Without any cell phone coverage, internet or laundry we were able to have the ultimate rest day. In the middle of napping we were awoken by voices. Upon searching we discovered other touring cyclists. I call them touring cyclists, but they had road bikes and only one other outfit, so not much stuff with them at all. We ate juneberry pie with them.

Luckily the day before the impromptu rest day we bought lots of food, which we sought to reduce as much as possible. MMM food.

Thursday, June 19, 2008

Saco, Montana on Thursday, June 19


Sarah carried tuna in her pannier for over 1000 miles, through the Northern Cascades and the Rockies, just to bring sustenance and happiness to this one adorable friend. Lucky dog.

Some Words of Advice from Chaos Panda

After having received much advice over my nineteen years of life (some good, some bad), such as "you should put Neosporin on that" or "I think you should visit a Shaman," I realized that one of the best things about travelling across the country is the privilege of imparting some advice myself:

1) Don't pee your pants. I like to call this piece of advice, "Rule Number One." Peeing your pants can be uncomfortable and time-wasting, as generally this results in an extra trip to the laundromat. Peeing your pants, if done in public, can also result in fines of up to $250 in some parts of the country, such as Princeton, NJ. Rule Number One is followed by Rule Number Two, Don't ride off the road because you have fallen asleep on the long straight flats of eastern Montana, and Rule Number Three: don't run over any prairie dogs or into any cows, for different reasons.

2) Don't buy tuna. If you have bought tuna, on accident or even on purpose, immediately seek out the next stray dog you can find and feed it your tuna. This will avoid the unfortunate situation of buying tuna, carrying it around for three weeks, and then feeding the nearest stray dog your tuna.

3) Cows don't like you. Cows don't like you when you run after them, camera in hand, and they don't like you even when you are on your bike, mooing softly. Dogs don't like you either. Correction: dogs will like you for only exactly the duration of time between the point you give it tuna and the point you get back on your bike, at which time it will cease to like you again.

4) Hot springs. These babies, when encountered in Eastern Montana, should not be trusted. Generally, they end up closely resembling so as to be indistinguishable from third-world Communist pools. Note: a Communist pool is like a Community pool, but without the chlorine.

5) Flat tires closely resemble contagious diseases. Unlike childhood illnesses, where the sufferer suffers only once before gaining some treasured immunity, flat tires are actually contagious in the sense of once you have it once, you keep catching it again and again, possibly until you die. The first warning signs include:
1) increased effort when pedaling
2) decreased ability to steer effectively
3) a flat tire.
The disease then moves into the next stage. Symptoms include: increased irritability, a sense of loss of purpose, and excessive amount of arduous pumping, and finally, the tell-tale sign, bike grease on hands and the rest of your body. The really special part about the flat tire disease is that these symptoms can be exhibited by the person who got the flat tire or any of her cohorts/companions/sisters.

I hope these pieces of advice find you safe from most of the dangers listed above. The Pandas hope to be out of Montana soon, and hopefully without any tuna.

Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs, MT on Wednesday, June 18

The outdoor pool had been closed down by the health department. Undetered by possible health hazards and swarms of mosquitos, we still used the indoor pool. We had come too far not to attempt to enjoy the hot springs! At the very least, it got some of the bike grease off our legs and dirt from under our finger nails. All in all, it was a totally creepy place.

Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs, Montana on Wednesday, June 18


Cattle and dirt roads delayed our arrival to the hot springs.

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

Zurich, Montana on Wednesday, June 18


Zurich, a railroad town on Route 2

Route 2, Montana on Wednesday, June 18

This is what Montana looks like.

RV Park, Cutbank, MT

Immediately upon arriving at this really awesome campsite, we decided to leave and watch The Incredible Hulk for two hours. It was a good decision.

June 18 from Malta, Montana

The night of our last posting, we stayed in Joplin, Montana. These towns along Route 2 are spread out about 8-15 miles from each other along the Burlington Northern Railroad, which parallels Route 2. Each town has a sign, a grain elevator, a school, some dilapidated buildings, and a quiet, aging population that remains mostly invisible. The roads are mostly dirt, and they are numbered avenues in one direction and numbered streets in the other. We got lucky with Joplin. It has a manicured park at its center with trees and a gazebo and bathrooms and we were allowed to pitch tent right in the middle of it. A woman from the town walked over in the evening just to comb the park for litter because there had been an antique car show there the day before, not because she had to. She sat down and spoke to us for quite awhile, and like many of the other women we've met along the way, was pretty impressed that we "gals" were doing something like this. Then she started talking about Hilary. I guess we are fortunate enough to think nothing of doing this as women.

Yesterday was our first day over 80 miles! We actually did 85. We were not in a rush to reach our final destination, an old park in Zurich that we had heard was swarming with bugs. Was it ever! We hid in the tent as soon as dinner was over with the intention of reading/ writing in our journals, but I think we just fell asleep.... This far north that means we fell asleep while the sun was still high in the sky.

Today we had a strong tailwind, and good thing because Chaos Panda is now up to 7 flat tires, which means long stops in the hot sun. Some other cyclists stopped to help and actually had gotten a flat themselves. The road is full of hazards, glass, car parts, roadkill, rocks. This morning we all screamed when the debris started to slither! Our second snake.

We are now on our way to the Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs, which had better be awesome, because Liz has been using it as the ultimate carrot for days. We started counting down mileage to the hot springs two days ago! The only bad part will be actually having to look at our tan lines, which are pretty unbelievable. We try not even to look at our hands, which have the weirdest looking glove tan lines.

In case you're wondering, Liz has made a top three list of things she misses.
1. Bath towels
2. Sponges for doing the dishes
3. Sushi

Cate and Sarah to share their lists in a future posting.

- The Pandas

Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Pics from Glacier Waterton International Peace Park

Glacier National Park, MT

Lake McDonald, Glacier National Park, MT

Waterton, AB Townsite

Prince of Wales Hotel, Waterton AB

Tech support makes a house call